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E. OORNELY.

EMBROIDERI'NG MACHINE.

Patented July 20,1886.

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E. CORNELY.

BM'BROIDERING MAGHINE.

No. 345,886. Patented July 20, 1886.

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UrnTnn STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FMIL CORNELY, OF PARIS, FRANCE.

EMBROIDERING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 345,886, dated July 20, L886.

Application filed February 20, 1885. Serial No. 156,527. (No model.)

.To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, EMIL CORNELY, a resident of Paris, in the Republic of France, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Embroidering-Machines, which are fully set forth in the following specification.

The subject-matter of the present invention relates to an embroidering-machine by means of which cords or braids can be fixed to textile fabrics after the method described and claimed in my application for Letters Patent filed De-.

cember 19,1883, N0. 115,086viz.,by winding a thread around the cord and around each stitch made by the machine. For this purpose I employ the machines shown and described in Letters Patent No. 228,445, of June 8, 1880, and No. 262,742, of August 15, 1882, with certain modificationsand i mprovements described hereinafter.

Figure 1 represents a side view of the head of an embroideringmachine provided with the mechanisms for producing the cordingwork. Fig. 2 represents an enlarged view of the seam, together with the mechanism for producing it. The other figures represent detached views hereinafter to be referred to.

The spool L of the cord H is arranged above the central tube of the machine, and the cord H is passed down the central tube alongside the needlebar E, and through the nipple-tube D, then through the opening d of said nippletube, and thence into the cording-guide a and to the cloth.

To do the work well it is necessary that the rotating thread carrier G (which winds its thread K, Fig. 2, around the cord H and around the chain stitch loop 1) shall pass its thread K at each stitch below the point of the needle B, to wind it around the loop I and around the cord H; besides,the thread-carrier G must be set suificiently high to pass freely over the cord H when it is fixed on the material. To fulfill both these conditions the needle-hook B must be set considerably high.

It is a well-known fact that the higher the needle-hook of an embroidering-machine is set thelonger the loop 1, Fig. 2, will be, which it draws above the cloth A, and the looser the chain-stitch will be, which it lays on the material; but as the cording-work cannot be well executed when the chain-stitch is loose, as the latter has to hold the cord which is attached to it, it is necessary to provide means for drawing the chain stitch tight, although the needle-hook is set in a high position. Thisis effected by means of a take-up apparatus, which is represented at Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7, and in which Fig. 3 represents a side view of the same. Fig. 4 represents a cross-section through line x. Figs. 5 and 6 represent crosssections through line 3 n represents the driving-rod, to which the horizontal screw-gear T is secured, and which, by its horizontal reciprocating motion, operates the vertical screw-gear o of the threadlooper 9, Figs. 5 and 6, of an ordinary embroidering-machine, which by its oscillations windsits thread around the needle-hook B, to produce the ordinary embroidering chainstitch. A spring, f, is secured to the casting V, and is provided with apad, Y. Ajaw, X, is secured to a lever, h, Fig. 3, which is secured to a shaft, 5, which latter is sustained by a bracket, Z. A cone, p, is secured to the driving-rod n, and by its reciprocating motion it strikes against the friction-roller b of lever 7t,which is also secured to shaft 73, and, turning said shaft, moves thejaw X from the position shown in Fig. 5 toward the jaw Y. The first effect is to clamp the needlethread, which lies between the jaws, against-the jaw Y, and then the further movement of the jaw X pushes aside the jaw Y, as shown in Fig. 6, drawing upon the thread,( whichpasses through thehollowlooper g and its hollow gear 1),) pulling it downward at the moment when the needle-hook B commences its downward motion and slackens the loop 1, Fig. 2, which will thus be drawn tight at each stitch, and it will thus become possible to produce a tight chainstitch seam, although the needle-hook may be set at a high position. hen the driving-rod it returns, the jaws X Y are opened by the action of spring m, Fig. 3, on shaft 1'.

At Fig. 7 I have represented a modification of the above described construction. The jaws X Y are actuated by means of a block, a, acting upon a pitman, v, and a lever, r, to which the jaw X is secured. hen the rod moves forward, (to the left in Fig. 7,) the block a makes contact with the end of pitman o, and pushes it and the lever 'r in the same direction, thereby closing the jaw X upon the jaw Y,and then pushing upon them both, in order to draw upon thethread and tighten the stitch. \Vhen the rod 12 retires, thejaws are returned to the position shown by the action of the 'springsfand m. It is also necessary that the cord, H, supplied to the work should not exert any strain upon it. For this purpose a projection or a ring, 0, of metal, india-rubber, or any other substance, is applied to the upper part of the central tube, a, and the cord H is passed over it before passing it down the hollow tube. The latter by its downward motion pulls, by means ofits project-ion 0,at each stitch, asufficient length of cord from the spool L to supply it freely to the work,and to avoid any strain thereupon.

Fig. 8 represents a side view of my improved spool-holder, which supplies the thread to the revolving threadcarrier G, and which revolves with the same around the needle. It differs from the one claimed in the Patent No. 279,919, of June 26, 1883, in two essential points. The spool is set into it from below in stead of from above, and it is provided with a device for holding rigidly the tension-screw, which'was not the case formerly. The plate 0 is rigidly secured to the pinion N, and the central spoolpin is secured to the plate 0. The spring 2 and the spool Q are set on the central spool-pin, and the spool is sustained by means of arm 3 of the frame M, which is set upon the stud 4. By turning the screwnut 5 the frame M and the arm 3 are raised or lowered to exert a greater or lesser pressure against the spool Q,for the purpose of regulating the tension of its thread. The eircumference of the screw-nut 5 is toothed, and a springpawl, 7, secured to the frame'M catches in between the teeth of said screw-nut and prevents it from turning. Thus the tension of the thread cannot change during the work of the machine.

The plate 0, and consequently the spool-pin, are connected with the frame M by means of the stud 8, which enters into a recess of said frame and prevents its turning on the stud 4. By depressing said frame into the position shown in dotted lines, Fig. 8, it is disengaged from the stud 8, and can be turned aside, in order to permit the spool being placed on or removed from the spool-pin.

By setting in the spool from below the construction of the spoolholder renders it possible to set the spool nearer to the central tube of the machine than could be done before,

which has the advantage that the centrifugal force of the spool is much reduced in its rotations around the needle.

In working on very thin material-such as tulle orlacea circular presseigfoot has been used heretofore, which is provided with an india-rubber washer as a feed-surface. In following very small designs on transparent material the said circular presser-foot covers so much of the design that the work becomes very difficult. It was therefore necessary to make an open presser-foot, which will not cover the design,- and to which the iudia-rubber surface can easily be applied. Thisis obtained by means of the foot represented in Figs. 9, 10, and 11. The shape of the foot is rep resented in horizontal views at Figs. 10 and 11. It resembles that of a horseshoe. Its sole is provided with a semicircular rim or flange, s, and with two dowels, q. and an india-rubber ring or washer, t, Fig. 10, is laid around the rim 8 and over the dowels a, and is held thereon by means of its elasticity. It affords an excellent feed-surface to work on very delicate material, and can easily be replaced when worn down. I claim?- l. The combination, in auniversal-feed sewing-machine, with the reciprocating needlehook supported and operated above the clothplate, the looper supported and operated below the cloth-plate and supplied with thread from below, and the mechanism for operating said looper, and for controlling its position in accordance with the direction of the feedmovement, of. a take up arranged to act upon the thread on its way to said looper, and mechanism whereby the. said take-up is operated uniformly,irrespective of the position given to said looper, in accordance with the direction of the feed, substantially as described.

2. The combination, with the reciprocating needle-hook supported and operated above the cloth-plate, and the looper supported and operated below the cloth-plate and supplied wit-h thread from below,of a take-up arranged to act upon the thread onits way to said looper, and mechanism whereby said take-up is operated to draw upon the thread during the first part of the needles descent, while said needle is above the cloth-plate, substantially as described.

3. The combination, with the looper having a hollow shaft, through which the thread passes, the shaft having longitudinal and rotatory motions for operating said looper and controlling its position, the mechanism for longitudinally reciprocating said shaft,'and the mechanism for turning the same,of a take-up arranged toact upon the thread as it enters 7 said hollow shaft,and comprising a spring-held jaw, andasecond jaw movable toward the said springheld jaw, for clamping and drawing upon the thread, and operating mechanism comprising a device fixed on the said shaft for operating the looper, and mechanical connections for conveying the reciprocating motions of said shaft to said second jaw, substantially as described.

L. The combination, with the reciprocating needle-carrier, the cord-guide, and the threadcarrier, all supported and operated above the cloth-plate, and the thread-looper supported and operated below the cloth-plate and sup plied with thread from below, of a needlehook set high in said needle-carrier, so as to allow the free passage under it of the thread from said thread-carrier, a take-up arranged to act upon the thread on its way to said looper, and mechanism for operating said takeup to draw down the excess of thread caused by the high setting of the needle, substantially as described.

5. The combination, with the reciproeatory needle-carrier, the cord guide, and the th readcarrier, all supported and operated above the cloth-plate, and the thread-looper supported and operated below the cloth-plate and supplied with thread from below, of a needlehook set high in said needle-carrier, so as to allow the free passage under it of the thread from said thread-carrier, a takeup arranged to act upon the thread on its way to said looper, and mechanism whereby said take-up is operated to draw upon the thread during the first part of the needles descent, while said needle is above the cloth-plate, substantially as de scribed.

6. The combinatiomwith the stitch-forming mechanism and the jaws X and Y, of the levers h and 7c, shaft 2', and cone 19, substantially as described.

7. The eonibination,\vith the stitch forming mechanism and cord-guide of an embroider ing-machine, of a projection, 0, to the central tube, u,0f the machine, for supplying the work with a corresponding length of cord, substantially as described.

8. The spool-holder provided with an inverted spool-pin fixed at its upper end to and depending from the frame of the spoolholder, so that the spool can he slipped over the said pin from below, and a movable spool-support ing arm attached to said frame at the side of the said pin, so that it can be moved out to allow the introduction and removal of the spool, substantially as described.

9. The combination, with the rotatory threadcarrier, of the spool-holder revolving with the same, and comprising an inverted spool-pin fixed at its upper end to and depending from vided. with an elastic or rubber feeding-surface M in the form of a ring or washer applied to said foot, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

E. CORNELY.

XVitnesses:

RoBT. M. Hoorna, DAVID T. S. FULLER. 

